Fish, much like humans, exhibit discernible behaviors, allowing you to understand their well-being. Learning to distinguish between positive and negative fish behaviors empowers you to act promptly, addressing any adverse condition before it escalates.

Let’s first explore the positive behaviors indicating your pond fish are thriving:

• Exploring the pond’s surface, signaling hunger.
• Frequent pectoral fin movements, especially when analyzing the water’s surface.
• Strong appetite.
• Consistent exploration.
• Socializing with other fish and avoiding solitude.
• Body flexing for better visibility.
• Foraging in the pond’s gravel.

When your fish display these behaviors, it’s a sign they are content and in good health. But how about behaviors that deviate from the norm?

Negative fish behavior indicative of distress include:

• Refusal to eat.
• Folding fins tightly.
• Lying at the pond’s base.
• Remaining immobile at the pond’s surface.
• Exhibiting reduced activity or floating idly.
• Exhibiting scratching or flashing.

Witnessing these behaviors warrants immediate attention. Here’s how to interpret and address these signs:

Loss of Appetite

When fish are indifferent to food or outright refuse to eat, consider evaluating water quality, particularly during peak summer months. Poor oxygenation in warm water or imbalanced nitrogen levels are common culprits. Introduce an aerator to enhance oxygen levels and conduct water tests to detect nitrate imbalance. Consider parasite infestations when water quality is optimal.

Fish Behavior: Clamped Fins

Fins held closely to the body symbolize discomfort, often attributed to water quality or parasitic infections. Start with a thorough water quality check, and if it’s satisfactory, seek parasite treatment solutions.

Lying at the Bottom

Fish resting at the pond’s bottom often signals high water temperature, elevated nitrate levels, or diminished oxygen levels. Initiate water tests and consider parasites if water conditions are stable.

Stiff Swimming with Folded Fins

This fish behavior typically denotes an advanced stage of discomfort, potentially a progressing parasitic infestation or bacterial infection. Start with water quality assessments and consider parasitic evaluations if water conditions are not problematic.

Piping at the Pond Surface

Gasping fish at the pond’s surface is a strong indicator of low oxygen levels or gill damage. Introduce an aerator and, if the behavior persists, assess for parasitic infections.

Fish Behavior: Reduced Activity or Idle Floating

While this is not an outright sign of illness, monitor oxygen levels, especially in warmer water with minimal water movement. Installing an aerator typically resolves this issue within hours.

Frequent Flashing

Occasional flashing or scratching is not alarming, but when it becomes a frequent sight, inspect the pond’s pH level or look for parasites.

By understanding and recognizing the various behaviors of your pond fish, you can swiftly address and rectify any issue, ensuring a harmonious, healthy habitat for your aquatic friends. Contact us for more information.

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Dallas koi pond

Watch out for a hot Dallas koi pond!

Something to worry about in August—a hot Dallas koi pond!  When the weather stays hot all day and night, your pond water can get very warm.  You may notice some changes to your pond once the pond water temperature rises above 80 degrees Farenheit. Your plants might droop or look tired and your fish may appear distressed, even struggling for air close the the pond surface.

Fish and a hot Dallas koi pond

Cooler water can hold larger amounts of oxygen than warm water.  As the water warms up, your fish become more active.  At the same time, they will then require more oxygen, right when there is less available!

Like humans, stressed fish are more susceptible to diseases when they’re not feeling up to par. Since most pond owners stock their water gardens with cold water fish, it’s even more important to know if your pond is becoming uncomfortably warm.

Fish aren’t the only pond inhabitants who increase their activity in warmer weather. Bacteria, viruses, and parasites also tend to increase which means diseases can spread quicker.

What about the plants?

It’s not just fish that can be affected by warm water temperatures. Your pond plants might also start to show the effects of extreme heat. Water lettuce and water hyacinth can turn yellow and burn.  The pads of your waterlily might also begin to turn a brownish color and start to decay.

Since the leaves of a waterlily help shade the pond and keep it cooler, maintaining the plant’s health is a priority. Fortunately, it takes a long time for pond water to reach 80 degrees, and you have solutions available to assist with cooling.

Is your Dallas koi pond too hot?

You can use a pond thermometer to check the temperature of your pond water. If you find the water nearing 80 degrees, you can increase oxygen with a pond aerator. You can also perform a partial water change and add cooler water. Just remember to detoxify the pond after adding municipal water – for the safety of your fish.

Keep in mind, you don’t need to take your pond’s temperature every day – especially if you have an ecosystem pond with proper circulation and filtration. Simply watch for tell-tale signs like fish gasping for air at the surface of the water or near a waterfall. That’s typically the first sign that the pond is overheated and needs oxygen.

How to remedy a hot Dallas koi pond

The number one way to help a hot pond:  make sure there is a depth of over two feet.   The bottom of the pond remains cooler and fish can stay at the lower depth if it is available.

In addition, aquatic plants help cool a pond provided one-third to one-half of the pond’s surface area is covered. Waterlilies, mosaic plant, and water lettuce are all great options for shading the surface of your pond. Of course, natural overhead shade from trees, bushes, and even your house will help.

Another item to consider is your pond circulation.  Your biological and mechanical filters should be placed across the pond from each other so that all areas of the pond are skimmed and the water circulated.

Your waterfall and/or stream also plays a big role in the oxygenation of pond water. Oxygen enters the water when there is air and water interacting. Streams and waterfalls create turbulence which increases oxygen levels.

Summer is a great time to enjoy your pond – and you may have noticed it’s also the coolest spot in your yard! Keep your fish and plants healthy, and you’ll enjoy a low-maintenance pond throughout the season. Contact us for more information.

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Whether you have a pond or you’re still considering making the plunge, you probably have come across a Pond Myth. Misleading information may have even paused your pond project all together. Or if you’re already a pond owner, and believe some of the rumors you’ve heard, you may really throw your pond out of balance and do more harm than good.

With that said, lets discuss and debunk a few common myths about owning and caring for a pond.

Pond Myth #1

The More Filtration the Better the Pond. 

Truth: Cleanliness is NOT next to Godliness … at least not in your pond. What do we mean? Yes, you can over-filter a pond. When you see happy fish swimming around in nature, it doesn’t appear that they are swimming around in bottled water, so it shouldn’t look that way in your pond at home either.  Tight filter pads in your skimmer pick up the smallest particles of debris, causing you to constantly have to clean out the filtering mechanism.  Go take a look at your pond. If you can see clearly to the bottom, it’s just right for your finned friends. Filtering past that point is creating unnecessary work for yourself and taking time away from actually enjoying your investment.

Myth #2 

Koi Will Eat and Destroy Your Plants.

Truth: Koi and plants go together like peas and carrots, peanut butter and jelly, cheese and crackers, (okay, we’ll stop now) but you get the point. They complement each other very well and do better together rather than separately. It is true that fish eat plants, but that is different than destroying them. If you are feeding your koi regularly, the fish will naturally feed on the plants in a beneficial way. Fish eat plants and then produce waste, which breaks down and is used by plants as fertilizer to help them grow. A true mutual and beneficial relationship.

Pond Myth #3

Your Pond Must Be At least Three Feet Deep in Order to Keep Koi.

Truth: Nope, there are literally thousands of two-foot ponds around the country, full of healthy and happy koi. Typically, when temperatures drop, even in the coldest of climates, the water will generally only freeze eight inches down. The earth that surrounds the pond has insulating qualities that prevent the pond from freezing solid.

Myth #4

My Pond Needs to Be Located at the Lowest Part of My Yard. 

Truth: The placement of your pond is certainly a personal preference, but we advise NOT building your investment in this location. When creating your pond or water garden in a low area, you run the risk of the run-off in your yard creeping its way into your pond. Lawn chemicals, dirt, debris and other damaging materials have a better chance of entering your pond when it’s positioned in a lower spot. And besides, the closer your pond is to your home, the more beauty, sounds and tranquility you can soak in when entertaining friends, or sipping your morning coffee.

Pond Myth #5

Gravel and Rocks Make it Difficult to Clean Your Pond. 

Truth: We saved this myth for last, because we tend to hear it the most often and it’s simply not true. Rocks and gravel are found in nature and therefore, should be found in your pond too! Both materials offer a natural place for aerobic bacteria to colonize and set up housekeeping in your koi pond. This bacteria in turn, breaks down the fish waste and debris that would otherwise accumulate at the bottom of your pond and become really unappealing sludge.

Regardless of the location of your pond, (I.e. near trees where you have an increase of leaf debris) or how many fish you have, you’ll quickly come to find that it’s not only more aesthetically pleasing to the eye, but it also makes the pond an overall healthier and more balanced environment.  Also, we haven’t received an official announcement, but it’s rumored the fish dig it too.

For more myths debunked, or general pond questions- please contact us.

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You have had your Dallas pond for a few years and you are ready for a change.  A way to improve your pond.  Here are some ideas we have to help you make your pond look better than ever!

Dallas Fish Pond

Dallas Pond Lighting

Winter is a great time to add lights to your pond!  Lights can be used to highlight certain features in the pond, such as your waterfall or stream.  They can also be used strategically around the pond to create shadows and focus.

We offer both LED white lights and color changing lights.  The lights are both made for underwater use to really shine the light on the beauty of your pond.  You can place the lights on a timer or even use an app to change the colors on your color changing lights.

Dallas pond driftwood

Faux Driftwood

Looking for a way to make your pond look even more like nature?  Think about driftwood!  Driftwood makes a pond look natural, but it can be hard to find and pricey.  We recommend using faux driftwood instead.  It lasts a longer time than real wood and looks the same!  You can either use it around the pond for decoration or place it somewhere to hide the skimmer.

Dallas pond fountain

Fountain in a Dallas Pond

You’ve might have had your pond or water feature a few years and you’re looking for a new way to make it stand out.  A popular trend in Dallas ponds and ponds throughout the world is to place a fountain or urn in the shallow end of the pond.  These can offer a whole new look and feel to your pond.  They can add depth and visual pleasure, a well as create a whole new look for your water feature.

Dallas pond fish

Pond Fish

How do your fish look?  Healthy?  Happy?  A variety of colors and sizes?  If not, maybe it’s time for a fish upgrade.  Fish are the life of many people’s ponds.   They provide visual interest and help create a personal connection to your pond.  Fish are fun to watch, feed and follow.  They can even be trained to eat out of your hand.

Are you ready now to add to your Dallas pond?

From lighting and driftwood to fountains and fish,  there’s something for anyone looking for a change.  Contact us for more information.

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Maintain a Healthy Population

One of the best ways to keeping your pond healthy and balanced?  Don’t have to many fish!  We get it—it’s tempting to add colorful koi and goldfish to your water garden, but too much is not a good thing.  Too many fish creates excess waste in the pond water, which in turn can cause water quality issues. As a general rule of thumb, pond fish need 10 gallons of water for every inch of their length. So a 10-inch long fish needs 100 gallons. If you have five 10-inch long fish, your water garden should have at least 500 gallons of water. Keep in mind that your fish are going to grow so be sure to under-stock your pond in the beginning.

 Fish Need Clean Water

Your pond water should always be clean-smelling and have good clarity.  On occasion, the water might be green due to suspended algae, or slightly brown due to tannins. Algae is expected in the spring when the plants haven’t yet reached maturity for the season. Once the plants grow, they consume more nutrients from the water thereby starving algae of food to survive. Ponds in sunny locations experience higher algae growth, but this can be alleviated by shading the pond surface with waterlilies or floating plants like water lettuce and water hyacinth.

Keep in mind, algae isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Your pond fish will eat algae off the rocks in your pond so it’s good to have a little of the green stuff. Too much algae can become unsightly but can be controlled with various water treatments.

If you’re going to keep fish, it’s imperative that your pond have proper filtration. A mechanical skimmer is your first line of defense for removing unwanted debris such as leaves and twigs from the surface of the water. If left to decay in the pond, organic material can cause a host of water issues that could make your fish sick. The skimmer also houses the pump which circulates the water and helps to aerate the pond. A biological filter is positioned opposite the skimmer to create the beginning of a waterfall. This filter uses bacteria to break down pond wastes, converting them into less harmful compounds that can act as aquatic plant fertilizers.

Don’t Overfeed your Fish

Koi benefit from premium prepared fish food, but remember—they also feed on things like algae and insects—it’s part of what created an ecosystem pond.  When buying fish food, look for food that contains a high-quality protein along with stabilized multivitamins and probiotics. And most importantly, only feed your fish what they can consume in about three to five minutes. In the summer you can feed them twice per day, but in spring and fall you should only feed them once per day.

Following these three basic rules for keeping koi and pond fish will help ensure that your finned friends have a solid foundation to grow and thrive. You’ll enjoy hours of watching your colorful koi and goldfish swim around the pond, gliding here and there beneath the waterlily pads. It’s a great stress reliever and a perfect activity to enjoy a bit of nature in your own backyard with the family.

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Not knowing how to get or keep clean pond water can prove challenging to some pond owners.  Your water may be clear, but your fish may not be acting like you’re used to seeing, which can signify that something might be a little off in your pond’s water. Follow our 8 tips below to help keep your pond water clean!

1. Maintain a healthy fish population

If you have more than 10” of fish for every 100 gallons of water, your pond is likely over-populated and clean pond water is not likely.  Excessive fish waste can cause an imbalance in pond water. Consider finding some of them a new home.

2. Don’t over-feed your fish

When you feed fish more than they can eat, the uneaten food is left to decay in the pond. Be careful not to feed your fish more than once per day, and no more than they can eat in 2 to 3 minutes. Remove all excess, leftover food.

3. Create a proper balance of plants

At season’s peak, you should have no more than 40% to 60% of the surface area of your pond either covered or shaded by plants. Too many plants can cause oxygen deficiencies at night due to the photosynthetic process, when the plants take in oxygen and give off carbon dioxide. You will not have clean pond water with this situation.

4. Choose the right size pump for your pond

You should be circulating the entire pond’s water volume a minimum of once every hour. Make sure your pump’s flow isn’t restricted by debris and be careful not to pump water higher than it was intended. Every pump has its flow limitations. Refer to the chart on the outside of the pump’s box to make sure you’re making the right choice for your pond.

5. Clean debris from pond before it has a chance to decay

Decaying debris, combined with fish waste and leftover fish food, can cause ammonia levels to spike in your pond. Clean out your pond and add beneficial microbes such as Aquascape’s Beneficial Bacteria to help with achieving clean pond water.

6. Choose proper filtration for your pond

Your filter should match the size of your pond. Remember, most manufacturers rate their filters based on ideal circumstances, and if you exceed those, your filter becomes less effective. Always up-size your filter so that it can handle more than the capacity of your pond. Also remember to clean your filter according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

7. Keep your pond cool during the dog days of summer

When pond water exceeds 75º Fahrenheit, it has a more difficult time retaining acceptable levels of dissolved oxygen. This is why it’s important to have your pond shaded by aquatic plants (see tip #3). Fish need oxygen to survive. If you see them at the pond’s surface gasping for air, add an aerator to help them during times of extreme heat.

8. Regular Professional Maintenance

The best way to achieve clean pond water is to let the pros do it.  Our thorough maintenance service takes the guesswork out for you and helps you achieve maximum pond enjoyment. We do everything you need for maximum pond health.  Skip the dirty and (sometimes smelly) job and leave it to the pros!  Contact us for additional information.

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pond leak

As we transition between seasons, you may notice, at some point, a slight drop in your pond water level, making you think you have a pond leak,

For many experienced pond owners, this can be a common occurrence. However, for a novice owner or someone who’s never experienced water loss before, this may be a caution for concern. Rest assured, no matter what end of the spectrum your expertise falls upon, there isn’t a need to panic, but there is a need to investigate.

Understanding the basic principles of identifying and fixing a pond leak will help you repair the problem quickly and efficiently.

Low Pond Edges

Settling at the pond’s edge is the one of the most common causes of a pond leak, especially if you own a new pond. Finding a low spot in the liner can be tough because the pond liner used in ponds and waterfalls is covered with stone, plants, rocks, gravel, etc.

What is the definition of a low edge?

 A low edge or “low spot” occurs in ponds where the ground settles in an area, typically not a large area, and pond liner is too low allowing a small amount of water to go out of the pond.

Usually, the low edges are found around the stream and waterfall where most of the settling may have occurred, especially after a few rainfalls. These areas are usually built up during the construction of the pond using the soil from the excavation and are the most subjected to settling.

So what’s your first move? 
The first line of defense is to carefully inspect the edges of not only your stream and waterfall, but also the perimeter of the pond. As the dirt around the stream or waterfall settles, it can create low spots that may cause water to escape over the edge of the liner.

What to look for? 
Keep your eyes peeled for wet mulch or gravel, or muddy areas around the perimeter of your pond – this is a dead giveaway that you have a leak.

If you do find a spot that’s leaking, all you have to do is lift the liner up and push some soil under it in order to raise the edge- Voila! Leak fixed!

Evaporating Pond Water

First, let’s have a look at what evaporation is and what it isn’t. Evaporation is defined as the process of turning from liquid into vapor. So is it possible that your pond water is simply disappearing into the air? Sure is!

The amount of water loss will vary according to the region of the country and the season. Ponds that are located in areas of the country with moderate temperatures and high humidity can expect to see 1 to 1 ½ inches of water loss per week during the spring and summer. Most of this evaporation should be replaced naturally by rain. However, if you live in an area with high temperatures and low humidity, it’s possible to see 3 inches or more of evaporation in a week.

Does your pond have a waterfall?
If yes, then you can factor in “splash evaporation” as a potential culprit.
The quantity and size of your waterfall(s) also affects the amount of water that is lost. Regardless of the climate, a 4’x 6’pond with a 20-foot stream and 5 feet of cascading waterfalls may lose as much as 2 inches or more every day!

What is Not Evaporation?

Evaporation is not filling up your pond all the way at night, and waking up the next morning to find the water lower by six inches. If that’s the case, you are now in leak territory. If your pond is experiencing a loss of water at a more rapid rate than normal evaporation, you most likely have a leak. But no worries, we are here to help you find it!

Low Pond Edges

Settling at the pond’s edge is the one of the most common causes of a leak, especially if you own a new pond. Finding a low spot in the liner can be tough because the pond liner used in ponds and waterfalls is covered with stone, plants, rocks, gravel, etc.

What is the definition of a low edge?

A low edge or “low spot” occurs in ponds where the ground settles in an area, typically not a large area, and pond liner is too low allowing a small amount of water to go out of the pond.

Usually, the low edges are found around the stream and waterfall where most of the settling may have occurred, especially after a few rainfalls. These areas are usually built up during the construction of the pond using the soil from the excavation and are the most subjected to settling.

So what’s your first move? 
The first line of defense is to carefully inspect the edges of not only your stream and waterfall, but also the perimeter of the pond. As the dirt around the stream or waterfall settles, it can create low spots that may cause water to escape over the edge of the liner.

What to look for? 
Keep your eyes peeled for wet mulch or gravel, or muddy areas around the perimeter of your pond – this is a dead giveaway that you have a leak.

If you do find a spot that’s leaking, all you have to do is lift the liner up and push some soil under it in order to raise the edge- Voila! Leak fixed!

Obstructions in the Stream and Waterfalls 

If the above theories have been explored and it hasn’t resolved the problem, it’s time to check for obstructions in the stream and waterfalls. Rocks and excessive plant or algae growth inside the stream, or even in your biological filter, can restrict the flow of water and divert it over the edge of the liner.

Still Leaking? 

You’ve followed all the other steps and your pond is still showing signs of a leak?
It’s not time to panic, it’s just time to dig a little deeper! Not literally of course, you just need to do a little more investigating.

The first step, shut off your pump for a day so you can determine the approximate location of the leak.
Next, follow these simple step by step instructions to evaluate the cause of the leak:

a. Make sure the pond is filled to the appropriate level.
b. Unplug the pump.
c. Let the pond sit for 24 hours.
d. Let the water level drop, then you know the leak is in the pond.

When the Water Drops:
To source where the leak is occurring, allow the water level to continue to drop. Where the water level stops dropping is the level where the leak is located!

Concentrate your search around the perimeter of the pond at the level that the water has stopped dropping. At this point, you should probably consider calling in a professional, especially if you’re a newbie to pond ownership and maintenance. A professional can quickly locate and repair the leak in a timely manner. But if you’re an experienced pond owner and enjoy working on and in your garden, it’s certainly a project you can tackle with a little effort and time.

Steady and Level 

The entire process of finding and fixing your pond leak can be time consuming, but it doesn’t have to be frustrating or complicated. Starting with the obvious and easiest assessments like the time of year, low edges or splashing while meticulously working through our list will help you figure out the problem while removing anxiety and annoyance. If that doesn’t work, contact us!

You’ll be back to enjoying your peaceful pond and all the serenity it brings soon again!

The post A DIY Guide to Finding and Fixing a Pond Leak appeared first on FNC PONDS.

Among inexperienced Koi Fish seekers, one question looms early in the process of finding that perfect pond addition, pet or show quality? This is an inquiry often asked by breeders, but you may find yourself wondering, “how should I know?” or “why does it matter?”.

Well, when it comes to purchasing Koi, there are usually two categories of shoppers –those looking for pets and those looking for a prized collection. Just like in dogs or horses – bloodlines, markings, and size can determine the price associated with your Koi.

Understanding the difference between show quality and pet quality Koi – and how breeders arrive at those assessments – can significantly demystify the selection process for many new owners.

So, let’s take a look at the various groups of Koi to help better understand what is important to you and what you’re paying for when selecting Koi for your water garden.

Koi Fish: The Domestic Group:

The Domestic group is exactly what the name implies.  Attractive and healthy, this fish has been spared a long trip from overseas.  The bloodlines of most domestic fish are short, and the classic ancestral stock is not long ago. So, the fish are tough and of good quality. But with a lack of refinement comes a less refined look. Domestic, durable koi of average to good quality make wonderful, sturdy pets and are an enjoyable addition for your pond.

The Import Group:

Typically imported from Asia, these koi are more expensive than their domestic counterparts, but in general, they are more attractive. So, just like most things, fancier equals more expensive. Why are they more expensive?  Their prettier appearance is more desirable and the cost of shipping is high.

The Handcrafted Exotic Group:

The definition of handcrafted is to “make skillfully by hand” and as you can imagine there is a much higher price associated with anything “handcrafted”.  However, it is safe to assume that the type of koi owner looking for a handcrafted koi, is also the type of koi owner who doesn’t care about price, they simply need to have the best.

The grand champion koi is much like a vintage Italian race car, no one cares about the skills of the driver, just the beautiful car.  It’s a profoundly expensive fish that is bred, raised, and shown by a Japanese craftsman, then sold to a trophy hunter in America. No skills are called upon to buy a fish that already comes with a trophy- just a fat wallet.

Koi Fish: The Handcrafted Domestic Group:

Just like the Domestic Group above, these Koi are handcrafted right here in America. They are fast and beautiful. The comparison in koi is the hand-selected small import or domestic koi that goes on to take a trophy in a local show.

In this case, the owner of the fish chose it based on its assessed future quality and they raised it to sub-adult or adult status and put it in a koi show. There is a lot to be said about a triumph in a koi show with a fish you chose and raised by hand. A true testament to your skillset to judge fish, to identify quality, and to provide the kind of husbandry needed to produce a champion from a small fish you hoped was a prized jewel.

The “Ordinary” Group:

The ordinary, unadorned and unembellished Koi is the last group of Koi on the market. There’s nothing wrong with an “ordinary” koi, but exceptional colors or patterns don’t generally occur in this group. These fish are certainly pleasant to own – just recognize that they aren’t going to win any shows.

Novice koi collectors often mistakenly assume that a koi with orange pigment is adequate to be a proper koi, but that isn’t the case. The all-yellow koi, called the Lemon Ogon, is wildly popular and easy to produce. It could be considered one of the finest koi of this ordinary group because it is abundant and not unlikable to own.

Often times breeders will sell the poorest of their culled baby koi into the fish bait market, and as feeder fish for consumption by larger fish in pet shops. The common alternative is to either bury the fish, or sell them as pond grade koi.

What Do These Different Groups Mean?

What this ultimately means is that there are different pedigrees of koi to choose from when purchasing your next finned friend. But more importantly, acknowledging there are very different types of koi owners as well. But you want to know the amazing part?

While the owners of economy koi are unlikely to expect all koi to be low cost and lower quality – the converse is not true of some of the folks who keep and show the finest koi. It’s important to remember at the end of the day, there’s a vast difference in the way koi need to be kept, and the way they are kept by the koi aficionados.

Want more information or some koi of your own? Contact us here!

The post Koi Fish Quality: The Difference in Koi Fish appeared first on FNC PONDS.

So when your mind starts to wander about the entertainment and joy your pond brings, it’s also wise to think about the general health and care of your pond fish. Healthy fish are crucial for a fun and enjoyable pond experience.

Buy Your Texas Koi Pond Fish from a Responsible Retailer

The first, most important and perhaps the most obvious, overlooked steps in securing a healthy pond fish, starts with purchasing from a responsible retailer. Always ask how long the retailer has had the fish. If they have just received them, ask the retailer to hold the fish for a few days to make sure the fish recovers from stress related to transport and new water chemistry. Never buy sick fish and if possible, quarantine new fish for a few days before adding them to your pond. Not sure what to look for when buying fish for your koi pond? Read our 10 tips for buying fish to help you make the right choices.

Keep a Close Eye on Your Fish

This should be the easiest task at hand, I mean after all isn’t the tranquility of watching your Texas koi fish swim around one of the main reasons you invested in Living the Aquascape Lifestyle™.  It’s best to consult the store or garden center where you purchased the fish, or visit your favorite koi vet’s web page for even more information.

Test Your Water

If you suspect there might be a quality issue, it’s best to test your water.  The level of pH can have adverse  effects on your Texas koi fish if left unaddressed.

If you’re consistently adding beneficial bacteria, have proper pond filtration, and a good balance of fish and plants for the size of your pond, you should rarely have any issues. It’s always wise to keep in mind that outside factors like lawn chemicals can occasionally leach into your pond and cause problems. It’s always best not to apply chemicals to plants or grass near your pond off in order to avoid any contamination.

Understand Water Quality

Speaking of the importance of water, understanding that the majority of issues with Texas Koi Pond Fish are caused by poor water quality. Making sure that the fish population is under control and not over-crowded is the first step in creating a healthy environment.  A general rule of thumb for pond sticking is to ensure you have no more than ten inches of fish (in length) for every 100 gallons of water in your pond. So if your pond is 1000 gallons, you can have a total of 100 inches of fish. You should balance your Texas koi fish population with a variety of pond plants. Your pond plants will help to create a harmonious and natural environment, while absorbing  fish waste as fertilizer and in turn will starve algae of this fertilizer.

In addition, beneficial bacteria should be added to your pond on a regular basis to help keep it balanced. Consider adding the Aquascape Automatic Dosing System, an electronically operated dispenser automatically releases the proper dose of water treatments for your pond.

Feed Texas Koi Pond Fish a High Quality Food

Finally, feeding your Texas koi fish a high quality fish food will not affect water quality and will ensure that your fish are getting all the vitamins and nutrients they need to maintain proper health. Being mindful of how much you feed your fish, as uneaten fish food will decay and can cause an imbalance in pond water. Feed your fish no more than they can eat in five minutes. In the summer, you can feed them up to three times per day. In cooler temperatures, feed them only once – and stop feeding your fish altogether when pond water temperature drops below fifty degrees.

By following these simple tips you’ll enjoy seeing your pond fish swim happily and healthily throughout the pond season! Contact us for more information.

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